Punching just helps to get it done faster, as well as keep the original walls within the pinch intact and not drill bit scarred. If it's no use, you can always drill both them out. You may not be able to punch it out at this point, but just keep drilling, stop, and try to punch. Fortunately, at this point it finally broke loose and the rest of the bolt that remained on the drilled side shot out and we were able to punch other the other piece of the remaining bolt by just hitting it from a different side. After about halfway through with your drilling, stop and try the hammer and punch. Drill little by little and remove your shavings.
03 mazda protege ball joint full#
(It's good to have some motor oil handy by way of a cap full to dip your bit in so that it doesn't get too hot and generally help lubricate the bit.) After you have a good start, switch to the 10mm size. Then, we began drilling with a small bit to give a good pilot hole. We used a grinder and ground each side of bolt to a flat surface with the knuckle. 10pcs Front Lower Control Arm Ball Joints For 2002-2003 Mazda Protege / Protege5. To remove entire ball joint, it would require a special press. 10x Front Lower Control Arm And Ball Joint Tie Rod End For 2001-03 Mazda Protege. Just test your ball joint for movement and if it is not loose, re-lubricate it and use new boot. I have recently replaced the rubber boot on 2010 Mazda3 ball joint. With it cut in half it allows you to work independently of two smaller length seized bolts rather than one long one.( If you have to drill one out, one might only have to be punched out from the other side, which became the case for us.) I had Protege and it went 195K and 16.5 years on original ball joints, and it was fine. (This is where having the control arm not in your way comes in handle).
With the knuckle in the clamp, take your saw and cut the bolt stuck in the clamp in half. 2003 Mazda Protege L4-1.6L: Service type Ball Joint Front - Upper Right Replacement: Estimate 2517.86: Shop/Dealer Price 3097.91 - 4756. Now take your knuckle to your shop clamp. The ball joint is pressed into the new control arm (so it doesn't matter) and this allows you to not have to deal with a control arm and also provides another favor later. Then, what you are going to want to do is take your saw and cut the ball joint off the control arm.
First, disconnect the tie rod, the bolts that connect the knuckle to the strut, take off the brakes, and rotor so that you are left with a knuckle stuck by way of a ball joint to the control arm. The following description is how we succeeded and replace the control arm with the ball joint stuck in the pinch and the bolt and nut that tighten the pitch rounded off and seized.
But then we had a larger task ahead of having to get the bolt out of that pinch on the knuckle to replace the control arm. Pitch doesn't matter because the pinch isn't threaded.
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